Day 5 – The Camino works its magic

Day 5 was by far an easier day. Since I was 6 kms closer to my destination, I got a later start. I needed the rest because I was exhausted. There weren’t nearly as many hills on day 5, although it rained again. But, by this point, the rain didn’t bother me too much. Having a reliable poncho made a big difference.

Not long after I left the hotel, I ran across Sua (the Camino dog!) and her owners, Luis and Marta. We took a few pictures and had a chat. We spoke for a little while. They asked where I was headed to after the Camino. I explained my itinerary and that I would be driving to San Sebastian. As I told them my plans, and mentioned that I needed to figure out a place to stay as I drove to San Sebastian, they invited me to their beach house which was about halfway to my destination! Wow!! I was stunned, but so touched. What a lovely invite! I said “yes!! Thank you!” We exchanged phone numbers and promised to stay in touch. I was floored!

Melide

After walking for about 2 hours, I stopped in Melide, just as the rain started up again.  I stopped at this little café and for a change, there were no other pilgrims. Instead, there was a very loud and opinionated Gallega complaining about her life. It was entertaining to sit there and listen. I loved listening to Gallego during the walk. It made me feel closer to my mom. I ordered a palmier and coffee. As I left, the skies were gray, and the rain was lighter. A good sign.

I made my way up the street and this older gentleman says to me “if you like rain, you’re headed to the right place!” Intrigued, I stopped and started chatting with him. His name was Ramon and he told me that Santiago is a very rainy city. He was so sweet and charming. We spoke for a few minutes and I asked if I could take his picture. I was so happy to be able to speak with him. He made me smile with his stories about Galicia, the weather and the Camino. This is Ramon.

As I headed out of Melide, I started to think about my parents. I thought about them a lot during the Camino. Like so many parents, mine made many sacrifices for my sister and me. Because of them, I speak not one, but four languages. I’ve always felt so blessed to speak 4 languages, but even more so as I walked the Camino. I spoke to everyone. I loved meeting and connecting with new people. And then one of those strange things I’d heard about happened. All of a sudden, I could smell eucalyptus. Why is that strange? Well, for one, I hadn’t seen any eucalyptus trees during the walk and the scent of eucalyptus reminds me of my dad. He grew up in a part of Portugal that has a lot of eucalyptus groves. I looked up and I was in the middle of a eucalyptus forest! These trees are not native to Galicia and you don’t see them everywhere. So, seeing them as I thought about my mom and dad was freaky and actually made me cry.

Camino animals

This was also the day I saw a few Camino animals: 2 dogs besides Sua and the Camino donkey! Yes, a Camino donkey! He even has his own stamp. Apparently, the story is that his owner is French and he’s walking the Camino. Maybe he was inspired by Tim Moore’s book, Travels with My Donkey: One Man and His Ass on a Pilgrimage to Santiago. This was a very popular stop on the route, with many of us taking pictures and getting our passports stamped. I didn’t get a chance to speak with the owner, since he was not around. He’d set up a tent in the field behind so maybe he was sick of the crowds!

As I stopped to take a picture, this lovely Spanish couple asked if I wanted a picture with the donkey. Sure, why not! Once again, we got to talking. They asked where I learned to speak Spanish and I told them about my mom. The lady asked what my mom’s name was. I said, Amparo, which by th way, is not a common Spanish name. She said, oh, that’s my name too! Woah!! Another one of those unforgettable Camino moments.

Ribadiso

Although this was not as long a day as others, I was tired. Each day I was pleasantly surprised that my legs, back and knees were painfree. But, walking an average of 20 kms per day is tiring. And although the rain didn’t bother me, it wasn’t too pleasant to walk in the pouring rain. As I got very close to Arzua, I came across Ribadiso. Ribadiso is not even a town. Rather, it’s a couple of old buildings by the river’s edge. In medieval times, the albergue (hostel) used to be a pilgrim hospital. It’s a beautifully restored building with a restaurant and bar nearby.

I was so tempted to stop for a little snack. But, I only had about 2 kms to go and I knew that if I stopped, it’s be so hard to get going again. What a good move! The remaining 2 kms were all uphill. My legs were dead by the time I reached Arzua. So, dead in fact that as soon as I saw the town sign, I called my hotel and asked for a lift. This is standard procedure along the Camino. If your hotel is not situated right on the trail, they often provide a pick up service. The gentleman asked where I was and I told him. He chucked and said “I guess you’re very tired” Yes. Yes, I was very tired! 

The hotel, Casa Lucas, was simply delightful. I had a beautiful room on the ground floor. The hotel grounds were beautiful and my room was right on the courtyard. The owners were very sweet and made me a nice meal when I arrived, way before dinner time. As an added bonus, they had a beautiful screened in porch where I enjoyed a glass of wine as I wrote in my journal.

Some other odd/fun things:

• Running across a little veggie/fruit stand in the middle of nowhere. This little place was called the Oasis. It was so nice to stop and buy some fresh fruit; the owner was right behind the stand, picking raspberries. She also had a very cute little pink Fiat parked nearby.

  

• I met a group of American women from California. They were all members of the same church and once we got to talking, were quite surprised that I was travelling alone. They asked why I was doing the Camino and I told them my story. I also mentioned that I was getting a tattoo once I finished the Camino. They asked what my tattoo design would be. I’d had it all planned for months: the shell which is found all through the Camino as a trail marker and 6 little footprints. Why six? I saw it on Pinterest and thought it looked nice. Yet, as I described the tattoo to the ladies, I said “it’ll be the shell we see on the markers and 4 footprints” I don’t know why four came out instead of six. I really have no explanation for saying this. And one of them says “oh, how lovely! It’s you walking the Camino and God walking with you.” Well then… I didn’t of it like that, but I like the image. So, that’s the tattoo I ended up getting.
• I am going to lose a nail. The nail on my big toe feels weird, loose. I’ll go see my podiatrist when I get home to confirm.  If it weren’t for my miserable blisters and now this, the Camino would be a breeze. But, I guess this is the point. It’s not supposed to be easy. It’s supposed to challenge you, make you endure some discomfort and see what you’re made of. Challenge accepted.

Two days left of the Camino. I’m starting to feel sad that it’s coming to an end.